Daniel Roth – the Man, the
Brand and the Watches,
part 2
Tourbillon watches – probably the most impressive part of Mr. Roth’s legacy
Daniel Roth tourbillon watches: Tourbillon Double Face Ref. 187 and Tourbillon Single Face Ref. 186
In 1989, Mr. Roth introduced the first development for his brand – the Tourbillon Double Face Ref. 2187 (C187 or simply 187 – see my comments on the reference system above). It’s hardly worth going into this story in detail – there have been many publications about it recently, which you can easily find if you want. I’ll limit myself to a few key points. First, it’s worth noting that, as Mr. Roth reports in his late interview with acollectedman.com, the DR307 caliber of this watch is the same movement that was developed at Nouvelle Lémania for Breguet and is known as the Nouvelle Lémania 387. Mr. Roth says he invested in the development in order to be able to use the movement in watches of his own brand. Two conclusions can be drawn from Mr. Roth’s words: First, the development only cost Breguet half as much – not a bad deal for Breguet with a budding independent watchmaker, and second, at the time this project was launched, Mr. Roth was already planning to leave his job at Breguet for his own brand, although he hadn’t even left Breguet yet.
Unlike the Breguet brand, which initially used this caliber without complications in its collection, Mr. Roth gave it an additional module with date and power reserve display, which was unusually placed on the back of the movement. The result is a rare double-sided design: the second dial, designed in the same style as the main dial, and the displays on it are visible through the exhibition caseback. Therefore, unlike the related Breguet Tourbillon Ref. 3350/3357, the Tourbillon Double Face Ref. 187 has the tourbillon open only on the side of the dial. The Tourbillon Double Face Ref. 187 is the most common and therefore most popular version of the early Daniel Roth tourbillon. It is available in two main versions of the dial, decorated with either a Ligné guilloché with vertical lines or a diagonally aligned Clous de Paris guilloché. The decoration of the dial on the back is in a similar style.
The basic version has a two-tone dial with a ruthenium-plated part decorated with Ligné guilloché and a part showing the natural color of white gold. We find this version in the special early subscription edition of 25 pieces in yellow gold made for the London retailer Asprey and announced in 1989. According to Mr. Roth, this edition helped his business get on its feet. The most striking feature of the watch from this edition is the inscription “Asprey” on the ‘bat wing’ to the left of the tourbillon, which replaces Daniel Roth’s wave-shaped Mk1a logo.
The Tourbillon Double Face is magnificent, but Mr. Roth did not limit his imagination to watches with two faces and offered two other versions: the Tourbillon Double Face Skeleton Ref. 187S with the skeletonized caliber DR308 (often erroneously referred to as DR307) and openworked dials on both sides, and the Tourbillon Single Face Ref. 186. To avoid confusion, it should be noted that the latter version is usually referred to in modern publications as reference 187 (with closed caseback) or 187S (with exhibition caseback), which is incorrect, as references 186 and 186S were originally intended for this purpose. It should also be noted that the movement of Ref. 186S is not skeletonized, as one might expect, but a regular movement with a solid mainplate and bridges whose visible parts are decorated with elaborate engravings with floral scroll – or ‘volutes’ – ornaments in baroque style. Unfortunately, there is no logic in the references here, you just have to memorize this feature. The engraved Ref. 186S is sometimes also called “Volutes”.
The Tourbillon Single Face Ref. 186 and 186S are much rarer than the basic Ref. 187 models. Their circulation probably does not exceed 30-50 pieces (50 is an optimistic estimate), while the circulation of the basic Ligné and Clous de Paris versions is around 300 pieces. The skeletonized Ref. 187S is rarer than the basic 187 versions; the production of the 187S will probably not exceed 30 pieces. Among the rarities are certainly the platinum models Ref. 187 and 187S as well as the exotic steel watches from a special series of 20 pieces produced by Daniel Roth for the Italian market. Acollectedman.com explains: “These were made at the request of Roberto Carlotti, the distributor for Daniel Roth in Italy.” The list of coveted rarities should also include watches with a salmon-colored dial, although in my opinion the regular yellow gold version with a two-tone Ligné dial has such a strong appeal that it is in no way inferior to the popular salmon-colored version.
As for the rarity of certain versions and editions, I would like to note that every early Daniel Roth tourbillon watch, without exception, should be considered a rare, important and valuable collector’s watch whose value will only increase.
It is very likely that production of the Ref. 187 was discontinued in 2002 when its successor, the Ref. 197.X, was introduced. Its newly developed DR720 caliber has an impressive power reserve of 8 days – the era of Nouvelle Lémania as a movement supplier in the history of Daniel Roth had thus come to an end.
Daniel Roth tourbillon watches: Tourbillon 8 Jours Double Face Date Power Reserve Ref. 197
This design was the successor to the great Daniel Roth classic, the Ref. 187, with its ‘batwing’ main dial and caseback dial with date and power reserve display. In 2002, when this reference was launched, Daniel Roth, Gérald Genta and their joint production facility in Vallee-de-Joux were already part of the Bulgari Group. Naturally, Bulgari decided from the outset to invest in the development of new movements for both brands (some of which were used in the Bulgari collection), leading to the introduction of a series of new tourbillon movements. The first in this series is the DR720 caliber, which allowed the double-sided design similar to the Ref. 187, but with a significantly longer power reserve of up to 8 days. Accordingly, the new Ref. 197 has an 8-day power reserve display in digital format instead of the analog display of the Ref. 187, which is new to the brand’s collection. The ‘batwing’ dial has generally retained its recognizable appearance, albeit with significant changes: The ‘bat wing’ parts are higher and form three symmetrical arcs together with the center section, formed by a triple sectoral sub-dial of small seconds. The characteristic three-winged small seconds hand is set on the tourbillon axis. For Ref. 197, the brand decided to abandon the original Ligné guilloché in favor of the more traditional Lozenge pattern, a sort of Clous de Paris, but alongated in a vertical direction. However, in the final years of production of the Ref. 197, the brand also abandoned this guilloché pattern. From 2006, the “new style” was favored – with a high-contrast white dial and large black Roman numerals forming a dynamic image. It seems that with the transition to the “new style”, the DR720 caliber received the new designation DR5300. Unfortunately, it was not possible to find any information in the available sources as to whether this was due to a technical modernization or not. Personally, I am inclined to believe that this is the case.
The design of the hinged case of Ref. 197 is considerably more complex than that of Ref. 187. Here Daniel Roth has gone in an avant-garde direction, away from the classics. The hinged case of the Ref. 197 makes it possible to keep the case upright at all times, even when the watch is worn on the wrist, so that the date and the power reserve display are visible. It also transforms the watch into a kind of miniature clock when placed on a table.
Overall, Ref. 197 can be considered quite successful, even if its production was nowhere near that of the original Ref. 187: Available information suggests that only just over 100 pieces were produced. To mark the brand’s 15th anniversary in 2004, Daniel Roth also released a commemorative series of 15 pieces of the Tourbillon 8 Jours Double Face XV Edition Ref 197.X.70 in platinum, which has an image of the manufacture engraved on the inside of the outer case – to see this engraving, you have to open the watch case and lift it up.
Daniel Roth tourbillon watches: Tourbillon Retrograde Date Ref. 196.X
This reference, in which Daniel Roth dispensed for the first time with the characteristic three-winged small seconds on the tourbillon, was first presented in 2003. Technically speaking, it has the same complications as the original Ref. 187, namely a tourbillon, a date display, in this case retrograde, and a power reserve indicator. However, the hand-wound DR730 caliber is a new development for the brand, with a power reserve of 64 hours and an integrated design where the power reserve indicator is placed directly on the mainplate on the back – this movement was developed for the Bulgari Group and can also be found in Bulgari and Gérald Genta watches.
There are two generations of Ref. 196.X. The watches of the first generation are characterized by a calm, classic dial with applied Arabic Breguet numerals, a Lozenge guilloché on the outer part of the dial and a Vieux panier guilloché pattern in the middle. The second-generation models were given a “new style” dial with contrasting large Roman numerals in a dynamic style and a ‘sunray’ pattern in relief. Contrary to Daniel Roth’s tradition, only two of the four case metals traditionally offered by the brand were available on the market – yellow and white gold, i.e. references 196.X.40 and 196.X.60 respectively.
Daniel Roth tourbillon watches: Régulateur à Tourbillon Ref. 198
This reference, which is one of the rarest and most mysterious editions of the brand’s tourbillons, was introduced around 2004. At the time, it was the first Daniel Roth tourbillon in its purest form, i.e. without additional complications. The beautiful name “Régulateur à Tourbillon” clearly refers to the legacy of Abraham-Louis Breguet, the inventor of the tourbillon, who named this complication accordingly in his 1801 patent. The dial of the classically designed Ref. 198 is decorated with a Lozenge guilloché pattern. However, the black Roman numerals lose their calm character, typical of early Daniel Roth watches, and take on dynamic contours that were previously unusual for the brand’s collection – this appears to be the first sign of a “new style”. As with the Ref. 196, there is no characteristic three-winged small seconds hand on the tourbillon. Examples in yellow, rose and white gold have appeared on the market, which, judging by the numbering, most likely belong to a limited edition of 15 pieces. The watch is powered by the hand-wound DR650 caliber, which has not yet appeared in other releases from the brand.
Daniel Roth tourbillon watches: Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Ref. 199.Y
This reference was introduced around 2003–2004 and is based on an automatic movement with tourbillon, perpetual calendar and retrograde date. This is a development of the sister brand Gérald Genta, which was carried out in the mid-1990s. For the Ref. 199.Y, this movement was upgraded and given the designation DR740. This reference is the first automatic tourbillon in the Daniel Roth collection and the first watch to combine a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon. The combination of two major complications resulted in a high price for the watch (platinum watches over $200,000), which inevitably affected its low production volume. It is therefore not surprising that the Ref. 199.Y is one of Daniel Roth’s rarest releases. Early examples of the Ref. 199.Y have a serene, classic dial with a Grain de riz guilloché. The dial of the white gold models is two-tone gray and silver, while the platinum models have a two-tone dial with shades of sky blue and silver.
The limited edition of 2004 “XV Years”, dedicated to the 15th anniversary of the brand, has a monochrome silver-colored dial with three XV numerals on the small seconds sub-dial. The second-generation models, of which only watches in white gold or platinum are available, have a “New Style” dial, i.e. a dynamic design and large Roman numerals.
Daniel Roth tourbillon watches: Tourbillon Lumière Ref. 200.Y
The hand-wound DR780 caliber with 64-hour power reserve of the Tourbillon Lumière Ref. 200.Y is a simplified and skeletonized version of the DR730 caliber first used in the Tourbillon Retrograde Date Ref. 196.X, with the retrograde date omitted and the arrangement of the main train changed. The Tourbillon Lumière was originally launched in 2007 in a limited edition of 50 pieces in rose gold. At that time, the style of the Daniel Roth collection was already strongly influenced by the esthetic preferences of its owners, the Bulgari Group. As Francesco Trapani, the CEO of the Bulgari Group at the time, explained in interviews, Daniel Roth’s style was too classy and dusty for him as a Bulgari man. Perhaps there are few watch connoisseurs who would say “dusty” when it comes to the Tourbillon Double Face Skeleton Ref. 187S, Daniel Roth’s first skeletonized tourbillon. But it is clear that the traditional baroque esthetic of this watch does not suit Bulgari’s extravagant, decorative style.
Well, the Tourbillon Lumière Ref. 200.Y is a skeletonized tourbillon by Daniel Roth that is all Bulgari in terms of style and character. Like the case, the openworked mainplate, bridges and ratchet wheel are 18k rose gold, and the signature Daniel Roth “arrow” hands have been given a unique serpentine shape in this edition to make the statement even more impressive. You could say that this is a nod to the Bulgari Serpenti design, or you could link it to Abraham-Louis Breguet’s use of serpentine hands. Either way, the allusion has meaning and significance.
Two years later, at the end of 2009, a platinum version of the Tourbillon Lumière was released, also in a limited edition of 50 pieces. Later, after 2010, the Tourbillon Lumière was relaunched in rose gold and platinum under the Bulgari brand name, with only minor changes such as the Bulgari logo at the top of the ‘horseshoe’ on the dial.
All four versions of the Tourbillon Lumière are extremely rare on the market, leading to speculation that these limited editions were never completely sold out. It is likely that only a small proportion of the announced editions were sold.
Daniel Roth tourbillon watches: Tourbillon 8 Jours Double Face Perpetual Calendar Ref. 220.Y
At first glance, this model, launched in 2008, is difficult to distinguish from the Tourbillon 8 Jours Double Face Date Power Reserve Ref. 197 “new style”, which has been in production since 2006. There is just one small difference on the dial that will make you wonder: There is a small opening at 12 o’clock that houses the power reserve indicator. Yes, there is no power reserve indicator on the back of the Ref. 220.Y, but there is a moon phase indicator as well as the classic perpetual calendar indications. The DR5301 caliber of this watch is based on the DR5300 caliber of the late reference 197 (“New Style”), with the date mechanism replaced by a perpetual calendar module and the power reserve indicator moved to the dial on the front. At the same time, the Ref. 220.Y was equipped with the same hinged case as the Ref. 197.
The dial on the back of the Ref. 220.Y is open-worked and made in a “new style”. Interestingly, it is the same perpetual calendar module as the original Perpetual Calendar Automatic Ref. 117. In my opinion, it is a sign of good taste to quote one’s own old designs and thus make the collection historically consistent.
Ref. 220.Y is a very rare edition, with the total production most probably not exceeding 30 pieces. Only models in rose gold and platinum have been spotted on the market. This is the last tourbillon developed by the Daniel Roth brand before its withdrawal in 2010.
Jean Daniel Nicolas tourbillon watches
In 2003, Mr. Roth, who had since left the brand he had founded, decided to continue watchmaking under a new brand, Jean Daniel Nicolas, a name made up of his, his wife’s and his son’s names. His company is a classic independent watchmaking workshop where he produces watches – tourbillons with a rotation time of two minutes, which he designs himself without using a computerized design system. The watches are mostly made by hand, of course with the help of his wife and son. Production is limited to a few pieces per year and they are only available in two basic designs. The first is a classic round model, the Tourbillon 2 Minutes Rond, while the second, the Tourbillon 2 Minutes Long, has an unusual violin-shaped case.
Daniel Roth tourbillon watches: restart
LVMH is the largest corporation in the luxury industry, so it is not surprising that its relaunch of the Daniel Roth brand is of interest. In 2010, Bulgari discontinued the Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta brands and continued to produce some of the most successful Daniel Roth designs under its own brand name for around five years. In the meantime, Bulgari and LVMH merged in 2011, which is why the dormant Daniel Roth brand was transferred to LVMH’s portfolio along with another “sleeping beauty”, the Gérald Genta brand. In 2019, when Bulgari was in danger of losing the rights to the Gérald Genta brand, the company resumed production of the watches. Nevertheless, in 2023, LVMH announced the relaunch of the Gérald Genta brand, this time under the LVMH umbrella and literally from scratch. At the beginning of 2024, history repeated itself, this time with Daniel Roth. Among other things, this meant that all previous technical developments of both brands, including the grandiose Grande Sonnerie, remained the property of Bulgari.
The operator of the relaunch of both brands was commissioned by La Fabrique du Temps, Louis Vuitton’s complications manufacture, which belongs to LVMH. The technical side of the projects is led by the founders of La Fabrique du Temps (previously founders of another complication manufacture, BNB Concept), master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. LVMH obviously regards the relaunch of the two brands as a politically important project and therefore intends to make considerable investments. This is already evident in the brands’ initial actions. For Daniel Roth, the year 2024 began with the announcement of the relaunch of the brand and the presentation of the Tourbillon Souscription, its first limited edition of 20 pieces. This watch is a reissue of the original Tourbillon Single Face Ref. 186, but from a technical point of view it is a completely new development. Note that the Tourbillon Souscription is a single-dial watch, so the mention of the Ref. 187, which appears in several publications in this context, is not correct.
The new DR001 caliber is shaped like Daniel Roth’s double-arched case, which is a welcome sign of class. The power reserve of 80 hours is optimal and meets the modern unwritten standard for mechanical luxury watches. The DR001 caliber is based on the same architecture as the FBN 916.01 caliber, which was developed for Laurent Ferrier in 2010, and is finished to a very high standard. This is evident in many details, such as the elongated click of the mainspring barrel, a LeCoultre invention from the late 19th century, the black polish of the intermediate wheel bridge and the four gold chatons. Unfortunately, the movement is concealed under a solid caseback, so the owner does not get to enjoy these rare features, as well as the Côtes de Genève, the perlage and (hopefully) the correctly polished screw heads. Judging by the available photo, the movement has a rather technical style that is a far cry from the most elegant examples of pocket calibers from the Vallée de Joux. But the style of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini has never been characterized by the pursuit of elegance and harmony – this was already true of their developments in the BNB Concept.
The changes to the case design seem quite sensible, the solid gold dial with Clous de Paris (not Ligné!) guilloché is reportedly made in Kari Voutilainen’s workshop, which promises very good results. The prototype presented by the brand has a rather rough print on the dial, which has been criticized in some publications such as watchesbysjx.com, but there is reason to believe that this will be corrected on the finished watch. It will also be interesting to see if the new version of the old logo I mentioned earlier will be corrected. Reportedly, the subscription sold out at the announced price of CHF 140,000 (plus tax), which doesn’t seem excessive – a good sign for a newly launched brand.